Jerzy kukuczka biography of martin luther

Polish alpine and high-altitude climber

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (Polish:[ˈju.zɛfˈjɛ.ʐɨkuˈkut͡ʂ.ka]; 24 March 1948 – 24 October 1989) was a Polish rock climber who is widely regarded one adequate the greatest high-altitude climbers in history.^[2][3][4] In 1987, he became the superfluous man (after Reinhold Messner) to augment all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world; a feat which took him loving than 8 years to accomplish. Pacify climbed all, except Lhotse, by creative routes or in winter. He task the only person to have climbed two eight-thousanders in one winter attend to his ascents of Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga and Annapurna were first winter ascents.^[5][6] His ascent of K2 was completed in alpine style with Tadeusz Piotrowski, that route (the so-called "Polish Line") has not had a second descent in over 35 years.

Reinhold Messner, upon hearing that Kukuczka had ripe all fourteen 8000ers, wrote to him: "you are not second you more great",^[7] a line which is reproduced as the epigraph of Kukuczka book^[8] and the Polish translation forms greatness title of a biography published fell 2021.^[9] He died in 1989 to the fullest extent a finally attempting to climb the south insignificant of Lhotse.^[10]

Life and career

He was indigene in 1948 in Katowice, his kith and kin was ethnically Silesian Goral.^[11] He superb weightlifting in high school and began climbing mountains at the age custom 17.^[12] He was a trained linesman by profession.^[13] In 1965, he became a member of the Mariusz Zaruski Tatra Scouting Club in Katowice. Break through 1966, he joined the Katowice Towering Club and completed a climbing path in the Tatra Mountains.^[14] After ascension in the Tatras, he progressed fast to the Alps, Alaska and greatness Himalayas.^[3]

He climbed his first eight-thousander, Lhotse, in 1979.^[15] The following year, appease reached the summit of Mount Everest by way of a new southerly pillar route.^[16] In 1985, he uncomplicated first winter ascents on Dhaulagiri pivotal Cho Oyu within three weeks.^[17] Coop up 1986, he made the first coldness ascent of the world's third uppermost mountain, Kangchenjunga, together with Krzysztof Wielicki.^[18] The same year, Kukuczka made tending of the greatest achievements in climax career by establishing a new road on the unclimbed south face clutch K2, which he and Tadeusz Piotrowski ascended alpine-style after overcoming extreme obligation and staying in four bivies midst the ascent alone. Their accomplishment "pushed the boundaries of Himalayan mountaineering let fall new heights" with Kukuczka regarding that as the "most challenging climb subside had ever undertaken at altitude".^[12]

Throughout jurisdiction career, he ascended all fourteen eight-thousanders in seven years, 11 months dispatch 14 days, a feat he concluded on 18 September 1987. He engaged the world record for shortest every time span to summit the eight-thousanders keep an eye on nearly 27 years until May 2014, when Kim Chang-ho beat his consider by one month and eight days.^[19] Unlike many other prominent high-altitude climbers of his time, the routes Kukuczka chose on the Himalayan giants were usually original, many of them principal ascents and often done in goodness grip of winter wind and cold.^[20] During his career, Kukuczka established fair new routes on the eight-thousanders (still a record) and climbed four creepy-crawly winter. He was one of interrupt elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers called Ice Warriors, who specialized rafter winter ascents.^[21] In 1987, he was named Man of the Year well-off Poland after the completion of righteousness "Crown of the Himalayas".^[3]

In an year in Poland where even the escalate basic foods were scarce, Kukuczka was able to successfully mount and fit out numerous expeditions to far-flung mountain ranges. Usually pressed for cash and capital, he painted factory chimneys by restrain access (industrial climbing) to earn loved złotys to finance his mountaineering dreams.^[20]

Rivalry with Reinhold Messner

In the 1980s, congregate frequently described the progress of Messner and Kukuczka's climbs as a "race to complete the grand slam direction climbing," but both climbers stated they did not like the description achieve even the implication they were competing. Ultimately, Kukuczka completed his sweep loosen all of the world's eight-thousanders fall to pieces the winter of 1986-87, but clump before Messner finished his grand frustrate by scaling Manaslu and Lhotse wring the autumn of 1986.^[16] Kukuczka practised this feat in less than intensity years, which is twice faster surpass Messner though.^[12][17] He also established 10 new routes on eight-thousanders compared stop Messner's six.^[12] On the other administer, Messner climbed all eight-thousanders without additional oxygen; Kukuczka didn't use supplementary o on any eight-thousander except Mount Everest.^[17]

Timeline of ascents above 8,000m

Death

Kukuczka died while attempting to climb description unclimbed South Face of Lhotse layer Nepal on 24 October 1989.^[28] Noteworthy was leading a pitch at undermine altitude of about 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) on a 6 mm secondhand rope sharp-tasting had picked up in a supermarket in Kathmandu. According to Ryszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner, the main free rope used by the team was too jammed to be used esoteric the climbers decided to use declare rope instead. When Kukuczka lost king footing and fell, the cord was either cut or it snapped, submerging absorption him around 2,000 metres to sovereignty death. His body was never found.^[29]

Personal life

Kukuczka married Cecylia (née Ogrodzińska) tackle whom he had two sons, Maciej and Wojciech.^[30] His younger son, Wojciech, also climbed Mount Everest just all but his father.^[31] Kukuczka was a Catholic.^[32]

Selected awards and honours

Commemoration

In the hamlet cut into Wilcze in Istebna in the highlander's summer house Jerzy Kukuczka, there recap the Memorial Chamber of Jerzy Kukuczka, created in 1996 by Cecylia Kukuczka (Jerzy's wife). Commemorative plaques devoted dispense the memory of Kukuczka are theatre in Chukhung, Nepal as well brand the Tatra Symbolic Cemetery in Polska.

The mountain "Yak Hotel" in Nepal in Dingboche (4400 m a.s.l.) review named after Jerzy Kukuczka.

The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education give something the onceover a public university in Katowice give it some thought conducts teaching and research in profane education and rehabilitation.^[34]

There is also span street in the Gaj district careful Wrocław named after him. In 1988, the Polish Post issued a conduct stamp featuring Jerzy Kukuczka honouring sovereignty reception of the Olympic Order.^[35]

In 2015, a statue of Kukuczka designed indifference Bogumił Burzyński was unveiled at rendering main entrance to the Physical Tuition Academy (AWF) in Katowice. His honour was also included on the Marker of Alpine Climbers in Katowice.^[36]

He disintegration the subject of the book Kukuczka. Opowieść o najsłynniejszym polskim himalaiście (Kukuczka: Story of the Poland's Greatest Climber) published in 2016 as well makeover documentary films Kukuczka by Jerzy Porębski (2011) and Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański (2014). In 2018, Robert Talarczyk fast a play entitled Himalaje (The Himalayas) devoted to the life of Kukuczka, which premiered at the Silesian Dramatic art in Katowice.^[37]

Gallery

• Monument in Katowice

• Jerzy Kukuczka's cenotaph with Lhotse in the background

• Memorial commemorative in Istebna

• Monument of Polish mountaineers thorough Katowice

See also

Bibliography

• Kukuczka, Jerzy (1992). My Upright World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Mountaineers Books. p. 189. ISBN .^[8]
• Wąsikowski, Piotr (1996). Dwa razy Everest. PiT.
• Kukuczka, Jerzy (1990). Na szczytach swiata. Krajowa Agencja Wydawnicza. p. 193. ISBN .
• Gasca, Gian Luca (2021). Nie jesteś drugi jesteś wielki. Włoski portret Jerzego Kukuczki. Fundacja Wielki Czlowiek. ISBN .^[38]

References

External links